조은철 Eun Chul Cho , 임형준 Hyung Jun Lim , 김준오 Junoh Kim , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

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Abstract

It has been generally known that liposomes become unstable when they contain cyclodextrins (CDs). Our present studies demonstrate that these liposomes can be stable by association of amphiphilic polyelectrolytes. Transmission electron microscopy and photocorrelation spectroscopy results showed that polymer-associated liposomes containing CDs (β-CD(βCD) and hydroxypropyl-βCD (HP β CD)) were more stable than phosphatidylcholine (PC)-cholesterol (Chol) liposomes containing these CDs. We also compared the stability of PC-Chol liposomes with polymer-associated liposomes containing HP β CD complexed with water-insoluble drug, rhaponticin (Rh). Two liposomes were relatively stable when HP β CD did not contain Rh, but Rh-HP β CD complexes triggered the disruption of PC-Chol liposomes. In contrast, polymer-associated Liposomes containing Rh-HP β CD complexes maintained its stability over 6 months. The skin permeation test demonstrated that drugs solubilized by CDs were delivered better into the skin of guinea pig by using polymer-associated liposomes than by using PC-Chol liposomes. Above results showed that polymer-associated liposomes gave an effective way to stabilize the liposomes containing drug-loaded CDs, which gives an application of liposomes in drug delivery systems.

Key Words

cyclodextrins, liposomes, vesicles, polyelectrolytes, rhaponticin

김동주 Dong Joo Kim , 강태준 Tae Jun Kang , 이천구 Cheon Koo Lee , 이정노 Jung No Lee

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Abstract

The interaction between polymers and surfactants was investigated by means of rheological and surface tension measurements. The polymers used in this study were acrylates/C_10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (AC) and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (AV). And the surfactants were PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (HC) and polysorbate 60 (P60). HC and P60 made the micelles intervening between AC polymers, resulting in the increase of viscosity. However, HC showed a similar behavior over the wider range of surfactant concentration than P60. Regarding of surface tensions in the same range of surfactant concentration, AC/HC solution showed the area of increasing surface tension with surfactant concentration in contrast to the AC/P60 solution showing no increasing area. It is assumed that the micelles between AC/HC were formed so cooperatively and strongly that the surfactants located at the surface originally moved to the micelles.

Key Words

polymer-surfactant interaction, acrylates/Q0-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethlyltaurate/VP copolymer, surface tension, rheological

김영소 Young So Kim , 김부민 Boo-mln Kim , 박상철 Sang-chul Park , 박정은 Jeong Eun Park , 정혜진 Hye-jin Jeong , 장이섭 Ih Seop Chang

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Abstract

Oxidation/reduction titrations are important quantitative procedures for many chemicals. Several widely used analytical methods for cosmetic ingredients are based on the redox reactions. In this article, we summarized basic theories of redox titration and applications. Determination of unsaturation properties based on iodine or bromine number, quantitation of hydrogen peroxide or peroxide materials in several cosmetic ingredients and measurement of titanium dioxide, widely used sunscreen agent, in cosmetics are discussed here.

Key Words

redox titration, iodine number, bromine number, permanganimetry, cerate oxidimetry

심관섭 Gwan Sub Sim , 김진화 Jin Hwa Kim , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 나영 Young Na , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated the effects of Sedum sarmentosum extract on the expression of hyaluronan synthase (HAS) genes and hyaluronan (HA) production in HaCaT keratinocytes. We also assessed water content (electrical capacitance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in human skin after topical treatment with Sedum sarmentosum extract. Sedum sarmentosum extract increased expression of HAS-2 and HAS-3 genes in HaCaT cells, when assayed by real-time reverse-transcriptase polymerase chain reactions (RT-PCR). Sedum sarmentosum extract induced HA production in HaCaT cells, when determined by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Finally, treatment of Sedum sarmentosum extract on human skin increased the skin hydration and decreased TEWL when measured using Corneometer and Tewameter. Our study suggests that Sedum sarmentosum extract should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient, as a skin moisturizer.

Key Words

Sedum sarmentosum, hyaluronan, hyaluronan synthase, HaCaT kerationcytes, moisturizer

조완구 Wan Goo Cho , 랑문정 Mun Jeong Rang , 송영숙 Young Sook Song , 임영호 Young Ho Lim , 박현우 Hyeon Woo Park

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Abstract

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C, AsA) has been known as a strong reducing agent and is supposed to retard the synthesis of melanin pigment. A main problem that arose in using vitamin C in cosmetic formulation was its poor stability and low skin permeability, which result in low lightening efficacy in clinical trials. In this study, iontophoretic gel patch with flexible thin layer battery was employed in order to enhance skin permeation of vitamin c derivative (ascorbyl glucoside, AsAG) and to increase its lightening efficacy. in vitro iontophoretic skin permeation and stability of AsAG, safety and clinical lightening efficacy of iontophoretic patch containing 2% AsAG solution were examined. A optimun current of ionthophoretic patch for korean women was 0.1 mA, considering the skin permeability and skin irritation of consumers. We suggest that iontophoretic gel patch could be a safe system for enhancing the skin permeation of AsAG and lightning efficacy.

Key Words

vitamin C derivative, iontophoresis, skin whitening, flexible thin layer battery, tropical delivery

류종성 Jong-seong Ryu , 김진황 Jin-hwang Kim , 곽택종 Taek-jong Kwak , 김기선 Ki-sun Kim , 김진준 Jin-jun Kim , 이천구 Cheon-koo Lee , 박경찬 Kyung-chan Park

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Abstract

We investigated new ingredients with real efficacy in both in vitro and in vivo all together. Especially we focused on the real improving effort in the clinical experiments. Because most products containing effective materials evaluated in vitro failed to show a real improving effect in the human with acne. We evaluated the well-known ingredients in a small scale clinical experiment with half-finished goods containing each ingredient. Among these products, product formulating SeleMix AN composed with germinating soy bean and magnolias bark extract remarkably improved acne and acne scar. Moreover skin redness caused by severe acne was improved. There was statistical significance between placebo and sample. Two hundred volunteers participated in our pilot study with written informed consent. After then we performed in vitro efficacy test this ingredient. SeleMix AN inhibited the growth of propionibacterium acnes at a concentration of 0.0125% and suppressed histamine release by 16.9%. Moreover human fibroblast cell activity was increased by 57% compared to control. Lastly, we performed a clinical study. Consisting of groups of 23 volunteers. Although the period of the test was in summer accelerating sebum secretion and recurring a high tate of acne, inflammation lesions were especially improved after applying product containing SeleMix AN for 4 weeks.

Key Words

acne, SeleMix AN, soy bean extract, magnolia bark extract, histamine

김미진 Mi Jin Kim , 임경란 Kyung Ran Urn , 정택규 Taek Kyu Jung , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

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Abstract

Astradalus membranaceus root extract (ARE) contains saponins, flavonoids, and their glycosides. Two flavonoids, calycosin and formononetin, were predominant constituents with the different amount by diverse extraction conditions. ARE showed the anti-oxidative activities, inhibited tyrosinase activity, and increased type I procollagen expression in proportion to calycosin and formononetin contents. The clinical study also showed that skin wrinkles were significantly reduced in the test group treated with a cream formulation containging 0.1% ARE compared with a group treated with a cream formulation without 0.1% ARE (p < 0.05). These results suggest that ARE may have potential as an anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics.

Key Words

Astragalus membranaceus root extract, calycosin, formononetin, anti-oxidative, tyrosinase activity, type I procollagen, anti-aging

박창민 Chang Min Park , 정민석 Min Seok Joung , 양다운 Da Oon Yang , 최종완 Jong Wan Choi

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Abstract

Recently plant extracts have obtained increased attention because of their health-related beneficial aspects. In this study, we evaluated anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-wrinkle of four different extracts obtained from Rubus coreanus (ethanol extracts of unripe, ripe fruits, leaves/stems, and roots). The ethanol extract of unripe fruits of Rubus coreanus generally showed stronger whitening and the anti-wrinkle activities than other extracts of Rubus coreanus. As a results, we knew that the ethanol extract of unripe Rubus coreanus fruit had mote possibility as a whitening and anti-wrinkle ingredient for skin care products.

Key Words

cosmetics, Rubus coreanus Miquel, whitening, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidation

안기웅 Gi Woong Ahn , 최민희 Min Hee Choi , 우윤택 Yun Taek Woo , 조병기 Byoung Kee Jo

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Abstract

The antimicrobial properties of medium-chain (C_8-12) free fatty acids and their 1-monoglyceride derivatives against a wide range of microorganisms we well known. However, previous studies have been mainly focused on the antimicrobial activity against pathogenic bacteria and viruses causing diseases in human or domestic animals' infection. But, there have been few reports describing comprehensive surveys of antimicrobial effects against microorganisms in cosmetics. For a start of this study, we evaluated and compared the preservative activities of C₈ (glyceryl caprylate) and C₁₂(glyceryl laurate) 1-monoglyceride in cosmetic formulations. From the result, we found that both of them have very excellent preservative activity against bacteria, but less against fungi. And C₈ 1-monoglyceride was a little bit more effective than C₁₂ 1-monoglyceride. According to the test results to evaluate each antimicrobial activity of glyceryl caprylate towards 5 kinds of microorganisms used in preservation efficacy test in cosmetics, gram-positive bacteria S. aureus and yeast C. albicans were sensitive and mold A. niger was most tolerant to glyceryl caprylate. Therefore, we tried to improve the antimicrobial activity of glyceryl caprylate agianst mold such as A. niger so that we could make it used as a preservative for cosmetic products. As a result, we confirmed that the antimicrobial activity of glyceryl caprylate is much improved under acidic conditions in formulation. In addition, we found optimal combinations of glyceryl caprylate with other antimicrobial agents. Among tested 7 antimicrobial agent, methyparaben showed the highest preservative activity in combination with gglyceryl caprylate.

Key Words

glyceryl caprylate, antimicrobial, preservative, cosmetics, bacteria

김남경 , 김미화 , 강내임 , 최신욱

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Abstract

(6R)-5,6,7,8-tetrahydrobiopterin (6-BH₄) cofactor is essential for various process, and is present in probably every cell or tissue of higher organism. 6-BH₄ is required lot various enzyme activities, and for less defined functions at the cellular level. And it is well known about the antioxidant effects as a non-protein compound. Recently, scientists proposed another roles for 6-BH₄ in melanogenesis. 6-BH₄ is a well known tyrosinase inhibitor. In this study, we found that methyl-BH4 and 6-BH₄ have antioxidant activities and inhibitory activity for melanin synthesis. These pterin compounds were not toxic in HaCaT and B16F10 cells and showed scavenging activity against DPPH radicals. We also showed that pterin compounds decreased protein levels of tyrosinase and TRP-1. In a clinical test, pterin compounds showed the significant skin whiteining effect after treatment for 3 weeks. Furthermore pterin compounds significantly suppressed the UVB-induced expression of PGE₂ and IL-6 genes induced UVB In HaCaT and inhibited UVB-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. These results showed the effect of pterin compounds as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

Key Words

pterin compounds, (6R)-5,6,7,8-tetrahydrobiopterin, antioxidant, tyrosinase, UVB